Trip Report Display
Linking people with nature by footpath along Lake Superior's North Shore.
I had the distinct pleasure of getting onto the trail a good month early this year, despite the best efforts of a very wicked March to screw that up for me. I began my hike Tuesday morning at the Penn Blvd. parking lot in Silver Bay and immediately climbed up onto some high ground with the usual stunning views of both inland forest and Lake Superior. This first section of trail certainly was a rollercoaster, but it was a ride with a view! Every big climb, just about, rewarded me with a memorable vista. The sheer cliffs around Bean and Bear Lakes were the highlight of the day. Bear Lake, in particular, is an area that rewards hikers with beautiful views for over a mile of trail. In a way, it reminded me of the Escarpment Trail overlooking Lake of the Clouds in the Porcupine Mountains as far as the majesty and duration of the views. That night, I off-trail camped near a bubbling hilltop stream about a mile or so past Highway 1. I knew the Kennedy Creek campsites were within easy hiking distance, but I enjoyed setting up my new hammock at the first nice spot I could find, regardless of all the underbrush that would've stymied my tent. This hike was the first opportunity I have had to use my Hennessy Hammock in a wilderness setting and it certainly did not disappoint, despite all the very cold weather I experienced. I slept better and more comfortably than I ever have before in the backcountry. It is truly a revolutionary product for backpackers. Believe it or not, I checked out the hammock web site after seeing them mentioned in a SHT trip report! Wednesday started off rainy, but quickly gave way to clouds and high winds. I hiked the trail to Section 13 full of wonder at just how intense that howling wind would be up on the rock balds of this amazing area. I was not disappointed! Right after dinner, I put on every piece of clothing I had (which wasn't much!) left the Section 13 campsite and climbed up onto the rocks to watch the show. It was hard to believe that the trees could stand so much violence! As I traversed the open tops of the bald, the wind tried to pick me up and deposit me somewhere else, and I found it impossible to face into the cold wind, such was the sheer force of the weather. I tucked in behind the top of the bald and watched the tempest through a big gap in the rocks. Immense freight train and passenger jet noises accompanied each big blow, and there seemed to be a contest between gusts coming inland and the return winds heading out onto the lake. There was no clear winner, except for me. I will never forget the show I enjoyed and the perfect location I had for it. Thursday saw the winds continue as the morning revealed a thin layer of new snow. Except for chronically frozen fingers and water bottles, the crisp weather was a boon to fast hiking and the wind seemed to be pushing the clouds apart and away. Time and again, the sun shown through, reminding me that the fronts that were blowing over would doubtless reveal some much improved weather conditions. By mid-day, at least one of my filter bottles was functioning normally, and I had taken off all but a long-sleeved t-shirt as the temps climbed into the upper 40's. I made camp at North Egge Lake with the promise of a very much warmer night. What a campsite! Egge Lake is the quintessential Northwoods lake and another real gem of this part of the SHT. I had a nice little campfire that night and a huge, full moon to keep me company. It was perfect! Friday dawned clear and warmer and sunny. My last section of trail included lots of meadows and grasslands and gentle rises. I'm assuming this area has seen some logging over the last ten years, or so, as there were lots of stands of young birch and other second-growth species all crowding together, competing for sunlight and space. The contrast with the mature forests of the rest of the hike was actually refreshing. I found myself thinking of the Feldtmann Ridge trail on Isle Royale as I hiked this section. The similarities were strong, both in view and terrain. I think Feldtmann Ridge was cleared by fire, though. At any rate, I enjoyed this section almost as much as the others I had been on and felt very disappointed at linking up with the road to Crosby-Manitou. Just as I emptied out onto County Road 7, I met two hikers and their enormous Malamute dog driving up to the park entrance road. After some conversation about where I had been and what I thought of the newly added trail around Section 13 (fabulous!), I mooched a ride back to my truck in Silver Bay. These two fine gentlemen not only refused my offers of compensation, they offered up lots of great stories about hiking out West that really got me thinking of heading out to the mountains one of these days. With so much majesty so close to home, though, I'm going to have to wait a bit before I seek other trails 1,000 miles away. We are all really blessed to have so much pristine beauty in our own back yards. Once again, I spent four days on the prime sections of the SHT and I did not see another soul. Not one! I mean, I love my solitude in the woods, but this just seems like too much goodness to have all to myself! I only hope my little description of perfection encourages someone to get out on the trails and see what amazing country this truly is. |
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